The Hungarian Lake Balaton is the largest in Central Europe. As Hungary is landlocked, the lake is often called the ‘Hungarian Sea’.
From the 1960s onwards, Balaton became a major destination for ordinary working Hungarians as well as for those from the eastern side of the ‘Iron Curtain’ who were rewarded for their work in building socialism with a permit to travel across the border.
As we could not dream of travelling to Spain, Italy or Greece, Balaton was the closest and most achievable destination for ordinary Poles to see ‘what’s out there’. My family and I were among the lucky ones who could go and spend holidays in what appeared to us a paradise.
Equipped with government-issued food vouchers and some little amount of pocket money in local currency, we were heading south to a warm, colourful and pleasant place. For us, coming from sad, cold and almost monochromatically grey Poland it was like a window to the world.
Twenty-odd years later, going through the pages of my family album, I found only one photograph of Balaton. It was a blurry picture of me and my sister that was taken somewhere on one of the lake’s piers. This snapshot was the only reminiscence of six subsequent summers spent by the lake.
So, these images are my attempt to create what my parents failed to do. I try to see the world through the eyes of a little boy who used to holiday there with his parents and sister over twenty years ago. Strolling among ruins of the glamorous, back in the day, concrete villas of Castro, Brezhnev and Honecker, the memories start to flood back. Balaton has hardly changed. It is almost exactly the same as I left it. Perhaps a bit more rusty, but the atmosphere remains the same. Only now for me it is no longer a paradise. I have grown and changed.
— Michal Solarski
Feature
Hungarian Sea
Michal Solarski re-visits land-locked Lake Balaton, which served as a resort destination for people who were rewarded for their socialist behavior during his childhood in the days of the Iron Curtain.
Photographs and text by Michal Solarski
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Feature
Hungarian Sea
Michal Solarski re-visits land-locked Lake Balaton, which served as a resort destination for people who were rewarded for their socialist behavior during his childhood in the days of the Iron Curtain.
Photographs and text by Michal Solarski
Hungarian Sea
Michal Solarski re-visits land-locked Lake Balaton, which served as a resort destination for people who were rewarded for their socialist behavior during his childhood in the days of the Iron Curtain.
The photographer and his sister, posing for a picture on the waterfront of Lake Balaton, circa 1985. This snapshot is the only reminiscence of six subsequent summers spent by the lake. © Michal Solarski
Basket and Goals. Club Aliga used to be a summer resort centre, exclusive to high-ranked Hungarian communistic party members as well as Fidel Castro, Mao Zedong and Yuri Gagarin, among others. Now the centre is open to the public. © Michal Solarski
Austrian Twins. 'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
"I think of you a lot when I get back at night all red, only my eyes (you said so) light up. I managed to use ‘monokini’ and I enjoyed incredibly bathing in panties only." Vintage Postcard
Tunda. 'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
"There are merely 40 of us here. Unfortunately, there aren’t that many men here." Vintage Postcard
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
"I am writing to you all this card with the assistance of my friend from Pusztaszer accompanied by a wine spritzer in an emotionally tired mood. Sanyi is unfortunately so drunk he’s unable to sign the card. Though he swore he would never ever drink alcohol again once back at work. Only milk." Vintage Postcard
Husky Dog. 'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
Botond and Doly. 'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
"I am not sure if you’re celebrating your birthday at home but that’s where I am sending this card. You are ten and we are so happy. You know, we reminisce at these occasions and let me say my dearest Gábor you have brought us a lot of happiness. We love you so much. You are now a big boy, once you were our little boy. We will celebrate next week." Vintage Postcard
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
Veronika and Zeny. 'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
"I am thinking of you here in Siófok. My wife was very pleased with my purchases for her. The slippers and the four negligées fit well. I have got also two camisoles for my daughter." Vintage Postcard
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
Ester, Zolan and Beri. 'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
"My lips are swollen again but the doctor said that others have the same." Vintage Postcard
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
"It’s kind of given but I need to make peace with the ‘beauties’ of aging as passion and love only won’t last, knowledge is essential. I am paying at the moment the price for my ‘passions’ of the past." Vintage Postcard
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
'Hungarian Sea' © Michal Solarski
© Peyton Fulford
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