Vucciria Reload
"Quannu s'asciucanu the balati ra Vucciria"
"Lights, shadows, soul and the resistence of Palermo's Vucciria; a historical town market that has become the core of night life"
Being at the crossroads of culture and commerce for centuries, placed in the heart of Palermo and of the old Lodge area, the Vucciria's "vanniata" (i.e. the screaming confusion of Sicily's capital market changes its fragrance, but not its soul. It has abandoned the fresh abundance of the fruits from both sea and earth (as has been immortalized in Renato Guttuso's painting) along with its paved stones, intended to get dry only in case of unlikely events
"The balati ra Vucciria 'a s'asciucanu mai'
The paved road that belongs to the tangle of silent rows and crumbling palaces, old shops shut down and abandoned fountains, deserted even by the crocodiles, fond of 'Picciriddi' ra Vucciria '. It is now parched by the "too hot heart" in Palermo, as the shadows of twilight revive its soft tummy that smells of street food ... and resistance to the crisis, to modernity, to the rhythm of the sound system of 'abbanniate' and DJ sets opencast in alternative nightlife.
The scent of a change that can resist any strike, 'ammucciato', hidden in the clefts of Vucciria as is 'lu Purpu vugghiutu', reclusive by nature, it is hunted by using lemons, 'ciumi re vinu' and beer foam. Following along the tracks of "ammucciato"; loose wires, street vendors, gas cylinders, urban decay's aesthetics and nightclubs that have lost the boundaries between inside and outside, without giving up the smoke signals coming from Mangiafuoco's bowels and from that grilled cooked soul from 'u' stigghiolaru ', a taste from the Middle Ages as 'cu' u pani cu 'to meusa', along with traditions and identity.
Palermo's Glossary
Vuccirìa: in Palermo, the term is translated as "confusion" and gives its name to the historical market.
"Quannu s'asciucanu the balati ra Vucciria": a popular expression to indicate unlikely events.
Balati: the large rectangular stones that pave the roads.
Abbanniata or vanniata: the practice of shouting news alongas the road, particularly referred to the market vendors screams.
Picciridd: kids.
Lu Purpu vugghiutu: boiled octopus.
Stigghiolaru: the seller of stigghiuola, stigghiola or stigghiuole, i.e. the entrails of lamb or kid, of course cooked on the grill.
Ciumi: rivers.
Pani cu 'to meusa': a sandwich with pleen meat. In Palermo they have eaten it since the Middle Ages.