Rollers: Tokyo Roller-zoku Gangs

Among Japan’s many fashion tribes, one of the less explored is the Roller-zoku. For over 40 years the Roller-zoku have been borrowing greaser styles, gathering together for loud Rock n’ Roll music, and sporting leather, denim and big greased up pompadours called regents. The Roller-zoku have grown from the roots of both 50’s & 60’s Rock n’ Roll and Rockabilly because Japanese record labels did not differentiate between these musical categories at the time of their introduction. Japan experienced the popularity of these early Rock n’ Roll styles as did much of the world at that time, but it was the revival in the late 70’s that brought the fashions still associated with the Roller-zoku. Japanese bands like The Cools and Carol were at the forefront of this musical revival and began associating themselves with leather jackets, greased back hair and motorcycles. Unlike many other fashion tribes these greasers are often all ages from the young to the old. Roller-zoku can often identify themselves as members of gangs. An interesting aspect of this tribe is some members’ predilection for dancing. Much like early Hip Hop was associated with breakdancing, the Rollers have their own brand of dancing, incorporating classic Rock n’ Roll moves as well as intricate footwork, acrobatics, and theatricality. This photographic series contains over 300 portraits created over many trips in 2013, 2015, 2017, 2018 and 2019. It has been featured in Rolling Stone Magazine, CNN Style, and many others.