Mongolian cashmere is generally what we call 'herded cashmere'. Mongolian herders are semi-nomadic, shifting between seasonal campsites and grazing their herds on open, unfenced and communally owned rangelands. In contrast, cashmere production across the border is generally more intensive.
Cashmere is the downy under layer of hair on a goat. This downy undercoat grows over the whole body, with the exception of the face and legs, and helps protect goats through harsh winters that can drop as low as -40°C.
Fibre harvesting is when the goats’ hair is combed or shorn. In Mongolia, goats are combed by hand to remove the fine ‘winter undercoat’ and leave the outer ‘guard hair’ to help protect them from the elements. Goats with particularly long outer coats are sometimes trimmed with scissors prior to combing to reduce snagging and allow for easier removal of the fibre.