ON THE SUFI TRAIL IN SRINAGAR

Srinagar for most is synonymous with houseboats, shikara rides and a visit to the Mughal Gardens. But few know of the Sufi shrines the old quarter holds in its folds. With its rich history and architectural heritage, the meandering course of the Jhelum houses some of the most serene shrines built by medieval rulers. During the Sultanate period, many prominent Sufis from Central Asia escaped the persecution of the Mongol invaders and sought refuge in Kashmir. Here in the peaceful environs of the valley, they found a safe haven and earned patronage of the native kings. Over the years as their followers swelled, khanqahs were built and Sufism took root in the valley. Today, centuries later, the mohallas along the Jhelum survive in more or less the same fashion, retaining a old-world charm about themselves. The traditional riverfront from Zero Bridge right up to Safa Kadal is lined with the most prominent shrines—the khanqah of Shah Hamadan being one of the oldest in the valley. On any given day here, you will find people tying sacred threads for a murad or distributing cooked rice for the speedy recovery of an ill family member. Even today the birth of the Hamadani calls for grand celebrations and people from across the valley pour in to pay their respects. Sufism in the streets of Kashmir remains a living faith. If you're keen, you can actually trace back history at some of the oldest shrines on a leisurely heritage walk—namely the Khanqah of Shah Hamadan at Zaina Kadal, the Naqshband Sahib at Khanyar, the Jamia Masjid at Nowhatta and the hill top shrine of Makhdoom Sahib on Hari Parbat. These shrines have retained a charm and serenity about themselves, despite the years of turmoil in the valley.