Sapeurs masqués

The ‘Sapeurs masqués’ photo series takes a look at a phenomenal, complex and surreal subculture in Congolese society called La SAPE. La SAPE is an abbreviation for Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes, which in English means a society of elegant people who like having a good time. It all started with colonialism, the first encounter between Congolese and French on one side and Belgium with DRC on the other side, the culture shock was evident, during the 1920s decade in music and fashion, as it happened in Western society and Western culture; the Congolese elite were introduced to western dress and fashion which of course created an admiration amongst many Congolese, in the same way Europeans developed an interest in African spirituality, masks being one of the things that fascinated many. While growing up, we used to hear our big brothers talk about how important it is to dress up, wear brands and have a good time. Still today Sapeurs are seen as a different breed who belong in this exclusive society called La SAPE, only the selected few understand it and are allowed in. What makes it even more fascinating is the obsession with many well known European brands such J M Weston and Giorgio Armani that they often cannot truly afford. The whole concept of La SAPE gets criticised sometimes by those who believe that by buying and wearing non African brands they're supporting colonial heritage while neglecting African heritage. The use of masks and La SAPE for me in this series symbolises the relationship between the Congo and Europe, how they still coexist. It’s clear that even after almost 60 years of Independence from France and Belgium, the ties with their former colonies aren't completely cut and in fact, parts of the European culture and dress have permeated African culture to such an extent that it has become a symbol of an African phenomenon. The quintessential European gentleman of old, has become the hallmark of La SAPE, a hat, suit and tie, often with a cane and/or an umbrella and highly polished leather shoes. On the African side, Europeans are still fascinated by African masks and even Picasso used these as an inspiration, whilst many museums in Europe are full of African work, providing inspiration for designers and artists till today.