Beyond the railway line that fringes the freshly developed Walter Sisulu square in Jo'burg is the township of Kliptown. In stark contrast to the well-ordered and crisp public spaces of the square, Kliptown is a jumble of crumbling houses, a tangle of electricity cables, piles of rubbish, and untreated water spewing over the unpaved streets. From the outside Kliptown looks a forlorn and forgotten place, but inside there is a sense of change that is being fuelled by many of the residents themselves - a spirit of enterprise, enthusiasm, and belief in a better future.