While in Viñales, Cuba I crossed paths with a group of cockfighters. They brought me into the mountains where the fights were taking place; walking over gullies with the aide of felled trees until eventually the roar of a crowd could be heard deep in the tangle of forest ahead. It was there that men, money, birds and bloodied beaks and feathers shared a makeshift dirt arena carved out of the woods in the middle of the pin-cushion hills.