Many years ago, I travelled through Burma on a rusty, shabby train that threaded its way through the jungle at night. I remember those nights through their smells: the scent of burnt scrub in a village, the overheated food sold by vendors who boarded the train at invisible stations, and the sour, penetrating sweat of travellers—all clad in longyis, their skin sun-worn, their teeth blackened from chewing betel, which they spat tirelessly everywhere. When I first arrived, my knowledge of the country came largely from George Orwell’s Burmese Days, a novel that exposes nearly every facet of British imperialist colonialism. After months of research for a book, I left with some photographs and the lasting impression of having wandered through a palace on the verge of vanishing. Following my departure from Burma, I returned to Thailand, where I was living with my wife. Some of the photographs were taken there.
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